Catching Up
We’ve had two solid days of work and are making up for lost time. In keeping with the day-by-day spirit of things, here are the updates.
Day 19.
Back to my island, with Tom along this time. Lose track of time as the tide rises, and wade back through half mile of ocean. Skirted a few eels and a lot of sea urchins. Big high five and sigh of relief upon reaching shore. Video footage of the whole thing.
Day 20.
An early morning in town getting driven to errands by our friend, Fary. A lot of waiting and a strain on patience, ending in some interesting stories about witchdoctors, travel, and the business of hustling over dinner. Late night drinks, stapling, and chilling back home.
Day 21.
Our tenth visit to NIMR, and the woman there explodes on us, insisting that we’re being overbearing and there’s nothing we can do to speed things up. Frustrating, but taken as success in a way. Our waitress at lunch picked up spirits by handing out 10 surveys to patrons after showing interest in our box of papers. Haggling at the fish market, nap, dinner, hazy evening of stress (realized pointless and starting to lift) and contemplation.
Day 22.
A day home for reflection. Tom and Sam went into town for errands. A lot of heated thought about philanthropy and a lot of questioning why I’m here. A day-long power outage to set the mood. It all ended in a run, a dip in the pool, and a nice night of grilling. Refreshed and satisfied at the end of it all, covered in sweat in my bed (you don’t miss A/C until it’s gone).
Day 23.
Daladala adventure around town. Met a shoe salesman. Strolled the University of Dar es Salaam campus (education is definitely more of a privilege here, don’t think there were any ragers on campus tonight). Homemade fish and chips, Igby Goes Down, a bootleg mosquito net rig out of frustration, and I’m off in dreams.
Day 24.
It’s a Friday, and we finally got our letter of approval. Set to begin research Monday, we decide on a weekend trip to Zanzibar. Hop onto the bow of the two-hour ferry and watch the sunset over the Indian Ocean. Shark and cane juice dinner at an international mixing pot of an outdoor market and an hour drive north to the waterfront Nungwi Inn. Drinks on the beach, met some Rastas, and hit up the disco.
Day 25.
Early morning jump from bed to beach. Decided to head on a snorkeling trip to see some nature and meet some white people. Did plenty of both. Brilliant water, lunch on a remote beach, and a nap on the sail home—Zanzibar is great. A Pink Floyd nap back at the Inn followed by a local pub and dinner. A night of watching our backs and making our own fun after realizing something odd about the place. Good times.
Day 26.
A great car ride south and a wander about town. A crazy ferry ride home, decidedly piloted by Captain Morgan himself. Went out on the deck and rode the waves in the spray.
Day 27.
Monday. Up early to begin work. A crazy loop around Dar trying to get MORE papers signed by various health officers. Met a doctor in the morning who will be accompanying us for the rest of trip. She’s a life saver. Found out our pool guy died yesterday when a wall fell on him. Everyone that works at our place is gone for the day at his funeral. A reminder that life is short, got to make every second count.
Day 28.
Another early morning. Finally we get the required papers together and are able to go to clinic, of which we hit 7 before the day is done. A great evening lunch, waterside, after a crazy busy day. And here we are…
Keep emailing me when you get the time, and keep living the good life. Can’t wait to be home.
John
